Step 2: Cutting the sail, Mylar, Dacron and the fortification for the nose
1. Turn the hardboard with the hard side up.
2. Lay down the Icarex or Chikara on the hardboard and prevent air bubbles or folds.
Watch Out: the fabric can't be tensioned, we don't want problems with deforming the sail.
3. Put the mould on the fabric and check if the lines on the fabric are lined-out well.
- Fix the mould on the fabric with two pieces of paper tape and cut the fabric with a soldering iron sliding against the side of the mould. Rest assured that a soldering iron of 40 watts will not set the place on fire as long as you don't hold it steady in one spot.
- First cut the sides of the mould where there is no paper tape.
Extra: By holding a metal ruler at 2mm of the paper's border, you prevent the mould from deforming or bending during the cutting.
Watch Out: pay attention to the fact that all cuts from the same mould need to have the same line-out of the lines in the fabric. The little squares need to be in the same orientation.
4. Cut a small ribbon of 800 mm long en 25 mm wide out of Mylar for the fortification of the spine. If you don't want to use Mylar, you can also use Rip stop.
5. Cut the two pieces out of Mylar for the fortification of the sail under the stand-offs. Instead of Mylar you can also use two pieces of Icarex/Chicara glued together or Dacron.
6. From a length of Dacron, cut out the fortification for the spine underneath the central-T, behind the upper spreader and the nose bag.
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